On the first full day in India, we were on the tour around Delhi and the driver mentioned that we'd be in India during Holi. He warned us to be careful, men drink too much, have been known to be too friendly with females, etc. Call me the ignorant American. I had no idea what Holi was, but made a mental note to ask Anya about it later. I continued hearing talk of Holi, as we worked our way through Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur. When were in Udaipur, I started noticing the street vendors were selling packets of brightly colored powder.
From Lonely Planet India, I learned that Holi is the color festival, celebrated each year around March, to say farewell to winter. Hold the phone. They hadn't yet said goodbye to winter? Winter? The sun had been beating down mercilessly on me during the days, and the nights I'd spent tossing and turning, kicking off my covers in the non air conditioned hotel rooms where the ceiling fans did nothing but move the steamy air around and I'd wake up in a puddle of my on sweat. I repeat, winter? Oh India, how wrong you are. Indians' confusion about what winter is aside, there are of course some religious and other meanings behind the holiday. Feel free to google it.
Shashi talked a bit about her plans for Holi during our cooking class, and Udaipur seemed even more abuzz as we made our way back to the hotel following the cooking class. I would not have thought it possible for India to become more insane. But I was wrong. Think of the most hyper child you know, now imagine giving that child an IV drip of caffeine and Pixy Stix. It was like that.
As evening fell, Anya and I walked back to where the festivities were taking place. We knew the festival started with a bonfire. There were some smaller pyres along the way, and as we got closer, there was a string leading to the main pyre. Traffic was sort of blocked and there were loads of police. A stage was set up behind the main pyre and people were already starting to gather. What had we gotten ourselves into?



We found a place to stand, slightly off to the side, away from the traffic that was still pushing through the gathering crowd. Behind the stage was Jagdish Temple, and the stairs of the temple were being used as bleachers. Sitting on the steps was the Polish couple we'd met at the cooking class. They called us over to them, so we decided to go find a spot to sit on the quickly filling bleacher stairs. This ended up being a mistake. We were behind the stage, so our view was not great. But worse than the view was the pain. Spending a few hours on a cool fall night, sitting on a cold metal bleachers, watching a football game is one thing. Spending a few hours on a sweltering "winter" night in India, crammed so full of people that your knees are up around your face and there's no good place to put your feet is an entirely different beast. And the stone steps were so hard they'd make the aforementioned cold metal bleachers feel like a la-z-boy. I tried to shift my weight around, as much as I could, but it was difficult because the stairs were so full of people that it was hard to move.
After sitting for a while, they starting doing some things on the stage. Due to the obstructed view, and the fact all the announcements were in Hindi, I didn't understand a lot of what was happening. The dancing was done by Hijras (Indian transgendered, though Wikipedia tells me Hijra is sometimes derogatory so maybe I shouldn't say that?). After the ladies did a few dances, they started pulling a few foreigners up on stage, and before long, the stage was full of foreigners doing their best to dance to Indian pop songs. Though I didn't join in, I felt embarrassed. Some of the girls on stage seemed to thing they were at a club, sticking their hands in the air, gyrating, etc. The whole thing kind of felt like an inside joke for the Indians. And it took forever. I was tempted to go join in, for the sole purpose of trying to regain some feeling in my backside.
Sitting to my left was an Indian woman and her adorable young son. Several times throughout the dancing, confetti was shot into the air. The boy tried to grab a few pieces. I gave him the pieces that hand landed within my grasp. The mom whispered something into his ear, and he shyly turned to me and said "Happy Holi" Heart melted.
Dancing and confetti
Hijra busting a move
Solid people
They made quick work of dissembling the stage. The energy in the crowd grew. I still had no idea what was happening. People on the stair bleachers started standing. I stood, happy to not be sitting on the stone stairs anymore. A few minutes later, I heard what sounded like explosions. The crowd gathered around the pyre started scrambling as the explosions continued. The crowd on the stairs started pushing back. The lady with the son grabbed my arm and pulled me back to a higher step. My thoughts were along the lines of "What's happening? India's safe right? There's no bombs here, right? This isn't Pakistan. I don't want to die in Udaipur." Then the pyre burst into flames. I failed to notice that the string laying along the street leading up to the pyre was covered in firecrackers. I'd never felt like more of a clueless tourist. The crowd cleared away from the fire, and it was hot hot hot. I could feel the heat, despite not being that close to it.


Fireworks started getting shot off from completely random locations. Everyone was smiling, dancing, and happy.
A few people started throwing colored powder on each other.
When it was clear the festivities were mostly over for the evening, Anya and I decided to brave the crowd and make our way back to the hotel, as we had a looooooooong next couple of days. Shops and restaurants are closed during Holi, so we stopped at a shop on our way home to get some food (cookies and chips) and water.
I have to admit I was very curious about the second day of Holi. Supposedly, the streets are a free for all color and water fight. Anyone is fair game. I heard in Varanasi water from the Ganges is used in the water fights. Gross.
We had to check out of our hotel that morning. We had a late afternoon train to Delhi. That train would get into Delhi around 6 am. After a 12 hour layover in Delhi, we had another late afternoon train, that would get us into Varanasi around 8 the next morning. So for over 48 hours, we would have no place to change clothes, shower, etc. Spending two nights in a train, covered in mystery powder and water from who knows where did not seem like the best idea. So as curious as I was, Anya and I decided it would be in our best interest to avoid the color and water fights.
After packing up and enjoying feeling clean for the last time in a few days, all we could do was wait. Nothing was open. We had to check out of our room. We couldn't leave the hotel, because we'd no doubt be covered in color (I heard foreigners were a favorite target). Luckily, the hotel hide a nice back yard. We sat there for a while, and this guy came into the yard from somewhere.
We watched as other hotel guests came back, covered in color. We watched as they returned from the shower, still covered in color. That stuff doesn't come off. We sat upstairs at the (closed, of course) rooftop restaurant, and wondered about the strange character who lived in a little room right off the kitchen of the restaurant. We read, wrote, took advantage of the most of the time working internet, ate cookies and chips (it's hard to buy healthy snacks when you are advised to not eat raw produce) and spaced out.
Finally, it was time to leave for the train station. Luckily our train was late enough in the afternoon that the color fights had mostly calmed down. Our entire time in India, we couldn't take more than 10 steps without someone asking if we needed a rickshaw. We walked a nervous several minutes before a guy finally pulled up in a rickshaw and we were off to the train station.
I really wanted real food, and the smell coming from the train station restaurant made my mouth water. But, I didn't want Delhi belly at the start of this two day journey, and the restaurant definitely looked questionable. So I got some more chips and cookies for dinner on the train, used the station bathroom where I shared my stall with a rat, and we were off. The train hadn't been moving more than 5 minutes, when a child sitting a few compartments down from us barfed all over the aisle. Perhaps he'd made a bad choice at the train station restaurant. Either way, 'twas a gross start to our 12 hour journey back to Delhi.
So, because a lot of people have asked: I decided on Friday not to take the job in Korea. I love that country more than I can put into words. However, I couldn't think of a good enough reason to validate going back for another year. I need to make getting my teaching degree priority one. I don't want to put it off for another year because I want to eat delicious food and feed my travel addiction. I feel like I broke up with a boyfriend, where I know in the long run this will be better for me, but right now all I can think of is all the good times and my future without it. So like any break up, the last few days involved a few tears and a lot of junk food. And if I hadn't been fighting a migraine for the past several days, the weekend would have also involved some wine.
Maybe after I get certified, I can teach at one of the DODD schools there...